Page 22 - Curriculum Visions Dynamic Book. To close the book, close the tab.

Waves on the beach
When waves approach a beach they rear up and then break, sending foaming water and sand first up, and then down, the beach.
Breaking waves, or breakers, are important because they move sand about on a beach. Winds push waves towards the shore in long, rolling lines. Close to the shore, where
the water becomes shallow, the waves get taller, and the tops curve over and form breakers of white, foamy water (picture  and 2).
  These two pictures show how a wave breaks. On the left, you can see the breaker plunging down onto the beach. On
the right, you can see the foamy surf (called swash) churning about a few moments later.
Breakers
Once a wave has broken, it rushes onshore in a mass of foam. This foaming water is called surf, and the surf that moves up the beach is called swash.
 2 As waves move onto the beach, they curve over and then break, to give a mass of foam. The red arrows show how sand is dug out of the beach
each time a wave breaks.
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